Start with walking

With all the different types of workouts available to someone who is setting out on a new course of fitness it is easy to be overwhelmed by all the variety of yoga, crossfit, spin classes, swim classes, etc. They are all wonderful fitness options that offer the support of a teacher and fellow participants who may share common goals of getting more healthy and reducing stress. They also require financial commitments, schedule conflicts, and a variety of quality among those who teach them. Knowing how to do a particular activity is not the same as knowing how to teach another person, whose fitness level may be vastly different, how to safely practice that activity.

I always recommend that people who are new to exercise start out the most simple way possible. Walking once or twice a day can be a phenomenal way to start the process of becoming more healthy and can do wonders for reducing stress and anxiety. Walking can be done in the early morning, at work breaks, and at the evening to reduce anxiety before bedtime. It is cheap and does not require special classes or equipment although joining a meet up group or REI class can be a great way to meet friends. There are a variety of wrist bands, such as the Fitbit, out there now to help you measure and reach your goals while providing a number of other insights into sleep and diet. Our community is surrounded by wonderful trails which can be starting places or future goals as your health grows.

Start walking today and push yourself to always increase the time and pace as you progress and eventually you may feel ready for something more challenging. When you do you will be at a better starting place to jump into yoga or crossfit than you were at the very beginning. Don’t forget to swing those arms and feel the weight come off your shoulders with each evening walk.

Here is a great New York Times article I recommend about getting started with walking. To Age Well, Walk

Nutritional Update for Physicians: Plant-Based Diets

New guidelines are being promoted for medical doctors concerning their nutritional advice for patients managing chronic illnesses like diabetes, hypertension, and cardiovascular disease. With some areas of the country now showing averages of 39% of the population suffering from obesity and its associated diseases there is even more pressure for medical doctors to actively discuss and monitor diet as a key component in managing the health of their patients. I believe that many health providers find the discussion of diet to be a very difficult one to have with patients and one which many patients are offended by when it is brought up. Our society has a tremendous disconnect between what our illnesses are caused by and who has the power to control those causes. The abstract from the NIH includes a number of studies that show the benefit of plant based diets, even in the absence of increase exercise, on reducing blood pressure, blood glucose, and coronary artery disease. It has long been promoted by the meat and dairy industries that the path to health and strength comes through milk and animal protein. This has been a phenomenal advertising campaign that stands in contrast to the listed causes of the chronic diseases plaguing our modern American society. Thankfully more funding for studies is being granted to look at the links between plant-based diets and adult onset illnesses like type two diabetes. While the recommendations for plant food in these studies always include a list of potential nutritional deficiencies these only serve to worry the public about theoretical risks of not eating enough protein, Vitamin B, and Iron. While this has long been the warning cry of the meat and dairy industries, there is no lack of either protein or iron in plant foods and with little effort Vitamin B can be added through a supplement. Remember that enormous rates of osteo-arthritis and Vitamin D deficiency are actually found in our society despite the world’s leading consumption of animal protein. Our rates of diet induced illness seem to point towards nutritional deficiencies in the general American diet rather than the plant-based diets of health conscious individuals.

Please take the time to read the NIH Article: Nutritional Update for Physicians: Plant-Based Diets. I also recommend the response letter from Dr. John McDougall, Plant-Based Diets Are Not Nutritionally Deficient, who runs his own plant based treatment center in Sonoma County.

Emily Merrill Photography

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I am always on the lookout for ways to improve the web site for the clinic and I recently was lucky enough to do some photography work with local artist, Emily Merrill. Emily prefers to work in natural settings, utilizing sunlight and outdoor locations to highlight the strengths of her model. She has a great deal of experience with weddings, portraits of mothers and child, as well as large fashion/marketing projects.
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She has a easy going personality which makes the act of being photographed feel very un-conscious and allows her professional side to shine. I found it a joy to work with Emily and I would highly recommend her for any projects you may have in mind for your business or family.

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Her contact information can be found at:

http://www.emilymerrillweddings.com (wedding photography)

http://www.emilymerrill.com (lifestyle photography)

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Your Prescription: Get out and hike!

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In the most recent edition of National Parks Magazine there was a excellent article contributed by a University of California San Francisco physician, Daphne Miller, MD, about the need for doctors to start prescribing nature to patients who are ill. In her article, A Prescription For Nature, she talks about the links between open green spaces in cities and body mass index in local citizens. Children who are now so frequently medicated to control their behavior in class can show improvement by spending more time outdoors and even doing some active learning in a natural environment rather than in a fluorescent one. With over 60% of Americans now medically overweight we should also be considering the importance of city parks and green areas when we vote for the use of our tax dollars. One of the reasons many people move to Marin in the first place is to have access to better weather, well maintained trail systems, and rolling hills to get our hearts pumping. Let’s all get out in nature and use its beauty to reduce our mental stress, increase our focus and sense of calm, and drop a few points off of the blood sugar. Your prescription is to read this great article and get out there and hike!

Health policy trends for early delivery in pregancy

I am grateful to have the opportunity to work with many women who are pregnant at Marinwood Community Acupuncture. It allows me to hear many stories about the approaches of different hospitals and Obstetricians throughout Marin County. My patients share information about the regularity of their check ups, whether or not they include ultrasounds or stress tests, and how often they are performed. I get to learn the differences of opinion between different medical approaches for conditions such as nausea and vomiting in pregnancy and each doctor’s prefered solutions, which range from just telling the patient to ‘tough it out’, to the administration of medications to remove the symptoms when they become severe. It is all a wonderful way for me to absorb more information about the process of a woman traveling from pregnancy through to delivery. It can be a source of great happiness for myself to work with a patient through the treatments which aid in fertility, to management of the onset of nausea, to efforts to control (or at least try to control) the troubles with low back pain and sleep, and finally to helping to bring on labor once the baby is at full term.

Through all of these talks I have noticed a shifting trend among patients of different ages concerning the frequency with which elective delivery by C-section are taking place. It seems to be a very prevalent story among those patients who have had one or two previous pregnancies in the last five years or more that a C-section delivery was performed because the women was ‘late’ in delivering naturally. Usually the pattern also included the promise that subsequent vaginal deliveries would be possible but in the end each of the following children were also delivered via Cesarean. I can see the complex emotions that my patients feel just by watching their faces, or listening to their tone of voice, as they talk about the desire they had for a natural birth and all the planning they had made for a home delivery. Things, for one reason or another, ‘just didn’t look right for a natural birth’ to the Obstetrician.

In those Women who are newly pregnant, with their first child, there seems to be less talk about a push for surgical deliveries. While I do still encounter a seemingly majority of patients who end up being induced with pharmaceuticals in the hospital I do not seem to hear of elective/scheduled C-sections. While thinking about the reason for the change between those women who delivered children in the past versus those I have worked with in the last two years I came across a very interesting article on health policy trends in the New York Times.

Times writer Tina Rosenberg, in her article Reducing Early Elective Deliveries, covers the trends over the last ten years in nationwide hospitals for early deliveries among pregnant women. She also does a really nice job of discussing how health practices that have been found to be unhelpful or dangerous for the outcome of the patient can continue to stay in practice in the large hospitals around the country. Thankfully, she also shows how just a few well read and well placed articles in major health journals can be the spark needed to start national health reform to reduce the incidences of these procedures and provide better patient outcomes. She does note sadly, that the real impetus for change in those states where the practice was most firmly entrenched was financial. It was the refusal of Medicaid to pay for the procedures of low income women that got the hospital to actually reduce the numbers and follow the national health policy trends. I found this article to be very education and I recommend that you take the time to read it as well.

Orthorexia Nervosa

Orthorexia Nervosa is a condition that has only recently entered the discussion of eating disorders in the community of Psychology. Sutter Healthcare defines the condition as, “an obsession with eating proper foods”. It is a condition that I come across every few months when first meeting patients during their initial consult at the clinic. It often comes up as I review the paperwork and see a list of supplements or food allergies that is so long that it requires a separate printed out piece of paper to list all of them. Usually the diet is extremely restrictive with an initially well thought out approach to sensible eating becoming an all consuming quest to ingest more and more vitamins, supplements and less foods that they perceive to be harmful. The supplements often become more important than the food itself and the person’s ability to take pleasure in eating becomes limited as they worry about calories, mercury, pesticides, toxins, GMO crops, PH, and so on. These are all things that we should be thinking about when we shop but not things that should make us live in fear. When we eat it should be a true pleasure born of cooking with our hands and shared with our friends and family.

People who suffer from this obsessive condition can place grave and even life threatening danger in certain foods. One patient suddenly began eliminating all products which may have come in contact with the world’s oceans because of Fukushima and the Japanese Tsunami. We should all consider the impact on pollutants in the ocean but to suddenly and fearfully start avoiding large amounts of food, not to mention stockpiling Iodine tablets, because of a highly publicized media event is not healthy if not balanced by the scientific evidence on the issue.

These patients are especially vulnerable to alternative healthcare practitioners and health food stores where they are surrounded by advice, driven by practitioner profits, and isles of supplements and superfoods from all over the world that promise to make them even healthier. This seems so appealing because it promises exactly what the illness craves, the illusion of even better levels of health through super fruits from Brazil, berries from China, or mushrooms from Tibet without any thought given to their traditional uses or therapeutic doses in medical practice. Part of the illness is that each person will only try a new product for a few weeks before deciding that is in fact not helping them be healthier and may in fact be making them sick. This prompts a switch to a new product and a new promise of better days just around the corner.

As recommended on the Sutter Health website, “if you think you or a friend suffers from something that sounds or feels like this description of orthorexia nervosa, you should visit either a nutritionist or doctor for help”. Your visit should always be to a wholistically minded practitioner who honors your concerns and education about food and works with you to make you both physically and mentally at peace with your food.

The perils of online research

Often patients will share an interesting fact about a study or medical opinion that they found while researching their condition online. I always encourage people to be active participants in their healthcare and to advocate for their rights as a patient. Medical Doctors are often overwhelmed by the tremendous amount of work needed to keep track of the health of their patients while still staying on top of the medical journals within their speciality. Add to that all the many other journal articles on topics that are from other medical specialities or even topics only tangentially related to that MDs work. Being informed about our treatment options and health maintenance needs is the best way we can help our medical providers manage their extensive work loads while still giving us the highest level of care. It also allows us to gage whether or not we have found a good fit in our provider or if we need to perhaps change to a provider that better understands our needs.

The significant risk in doing ones own research, as a lay person outside of the medical profession, is that it is very difficult to comb through all the information that is out there to be found. Just the lack of a background in statistics alone makes reading any study extremely limited for most of us. Perhaps the largest problem is that almost all of us turn to the internet as a starting place for our research and nearly everything on the internet is based on people’s opinions rather than any sort of scientific or peer review. With the understanding that many people in medicine do not agree with each other on valid forms of care, it must also be acknowledged, that most of what is said on websites is based on a bias opinion, outright misrepresentation, or the attempt to sell a product to the consumer for profit People are promised revolutionary forms of care that standard medicine does not know about or superfoods and vitamins that promise to be the key that will solve your chronic ailments, all for the low low price of… It is very easy to cherry pick facts from scientific articles in order to make them seem as though they support a claim made on a provider or salesperson’s website. When a person has been suffering for a long time with an illness, or is faced with the initial fear of a new diagnosis, it is very easy to read these online promises and not follow through with diligent fact checking. I get very worried when I receive an email from a patient telling me that they read about a new product on a website claiming to be a cure for their illness and that, without any scientific review, they already are ingesting it to see if it works! This happens much more often than one might think. If a product has the ability to heal than it also has the ability to hurt and we should be more careful about where we get our medicines and the information about their efficacy.

One of the better ways that people can now access scientific journal abstracts online is through the website www.Pubmed.org. This allows lay people to access the abstracts, not the entire study article, for a brief summary of what a study set out to prove and what it did or did not succeed in proving. This is a wonderful gift from the internet for both practitioners like myself as well as for my patients. However, it is very important to note again that you are not, with few exceptions, able to see the entire article. This means that you do not get to see how the study was set up, what were the exclusion criteria for the patients, what kind of study was it, and most importantly, who funded the study. Obviously, it would be good to know if the study touting the health benefits of alcohol was funded by Budweiser or Coors or if the health benefits of the super antioxidant pomegranate was funded by the United Pomegranate Farmers Association. These things really matter as the tell us if the study was very small, or if many of the patients in the study were excluded at the end to make the results look better, or if the study had a poor blinding which allowed for participants or researches to play a role in the outcomes, and lastly who stood to benefit from the outcomes.

I hope that patients will continue to research online for their own awareness and to better educate us in the medical profession about all that is being studied out in the world. I hope that they will use sites like Pubmed and Jama (Journal of the American Medical Association) to look for peer review studies. Please always take them, along with everything out there on the internet, with a large grain of salt.

The male diet and fertility

sperm1-300x225I treat many women for reproductive health and fertility here at Marinwood Community Acupuncture. Often we are starting from a point where there is difficulty achieving pregnancy which can involve a long list of questions about the woman’s health, diet, and lifestyle. The majority of the women that I work with are educated and involved in their diet, clear about both their goal of achieving pregnancy, as well as, what they are and are not willing to sacrifice to achieve those goals. Women are open to talking about ways they may be able to improve their chances of conception and also confident enough to share what they have already learned through their own studies or experiences with medical fertility specialist. These patients understand that through the entire process, from conception to delivery, what they put into their bodies and how they live their daily lives with effect all stages of the journey.

So, this often brings me to the question of why is it always just the women I am meeting? Why has society conditioned us to place the great emphasis and responsibility of getting pregnant on only one half of the partnership. I am lucky enough to spend all this time with these hopeful patients, hearing about their wishes and dreams, and then follow them all the way through the pregnancy, and if commitment and chance meet, there is a happy and healthy baby at the end. I almost never, with very few exceptions, meet the males in these relationships. Perhaps they do not feel or understand that what they eat, how they manage stress, and how they juggle work and sleep affect their sexual health and fertility? From talking to these women I hear that most feel confident that their partners can appreciate the role of their own health during the effort to achieve conception. Staying out of hot tubs and reducing their intake of alcohol, coffee, cigarettes and marijuana seem to stand out to the male species as obvious choices. However, these are all efforts centered around reducing the intake of unhealthy substances. I worry that they do not appreciate the importance of increasing or monitoring the intake of those healthy substances that their female partners are always worrying about. Women tell me that they eat more leafy greens, less meat, walk more to lose weight and reduce stress, try to improve sleep and always add on that prenatal vitamin. Do men concern themselves with these important changes and should they?

Researchers at McGill University did a study which looked at the effects of lifestyle and diet on the health of male mice. In particular they were looking at the sperm of those mice and how its structure changed as a result of different nutritional insufficiencies, over consumptions of poor quality foods, or other physical stressors. What they found was that deficiencies in vitamin B9, known as Folate, led to changes in the sperm genome. Folate is widely available in many leafy greens, meats, and fortified foods and female patients have always expressed awareness of the risks of not having enough of this vitamin in their diet during conception and pregnancy. It seems the knowledge has not been adequately taught to men.

“Despite the fact that folic acid is now added to a variety of foods, fathers who are eating high-fat, fast food diets or who are obese may not be able to use or metabolize folate in the same way as those with adequate levels of the vitamin,” says researcher Sarah Kimmins. “People who live in the Canadian North or in other parts of the world where there is food insecurity may also be particularly at risk for folate deficiency. And we now know that this information will be passed on from the father to the embryo with consequences that may be quite serious.”

This is more than just a problem with fertility and the couples chances of becoming pregnant. There are the greater risks and consequences of a pregnancy that suffers early termination or develops to full term with fetal abnormalities.

“We were very surprised to see that there was an almost 30 per cent increase in birth defects in the litters sired by fathers whose levels of folates were insufficient,” said Dr. Romain Lambrot, of McGill’s Dept. of Animal Science, one of the researchers who worked on the study. “We saw some pretty severe skeletal abnormalities that included both cranio-facial and spinal deformities.”

Men need to become more involved in the process of becoming pregnant and that involvement extends beyond the bedroom. They need to think about what foods and drugs they put into their bodies, and which foods they are failing to consume, before they even try to create a child. The male sperm has a development tract of around 72 days so whatever the man’s lifestyle is at any given moment can have consequences for sperm which will not even be viable for conception for nearly three months. I always suggest to patients that they begin their treatment here at the clinic, as well as lifestyle adjustments at home, a full three months before they desire to achieve pregnancy so that we can best prepare the future eggs and sperm which are on the path to conception. I hope to meet more male partners in the future of my work in fertility and reproductive medicine but feel confident that women will continue to be the educators in their relationships at home.

Journal Reference:

  1. R. Lambrot, C. Xu, S. Saint-Phar, G. Chountalos, T. Cohen, M. Paquet, M. Suderman, M. Hallett, S. Kimmins. Low paternal dietary folate alters the mouse sperm epigenome and is associated with negative pregnancy outcomes. Nature Communications, 2013; 4 DOI: 10.1038/ncomms3889

Cambodia – Angkor Wat

IMG_4006We flew out of Da Nang for a one hour flight to Siem Reap, Cambodia. We had just experienced a typhoon pass through, just a little fella, while we were in Hoi An having what was supposed to be our beach/pool break on the coast. I was excited to see some of those white sand beaches and blue waters from the pictures but we experienced massive storm surge and the most intense wind and rain I had ever seen. We knew the little typhoons broth was roaring towards the Philippines  and we took off with fingers crossed that we could stay ahead of it for what was going to be the jewel of our whole trip, Angkor Wat.

The main temple is actually within a large complex or city of temples built by several different kings of the Khmer people from the 10th to 14th centuries. It’s thought that there are some 200 temples in Cambodia’s jungles but less than a hundred are accessible. When the empire collapsed 16th century the temples were all swallowed by the jungles and would be forgotten for 400 years. After the French captured and colonized the area into the country Indochina they began discovering some of the temples and were startled by the extent, size and detail of the buildings that they were finding. French archeologist were traveling to Indochina to begin conservation and exportation and word quickly spread after the discovery in the early 1900’s.

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Angkor Wat is the largest of the temples and is dedicated to the Hindu God Shiva. Many of the temples are dedicated to Hindu Gods but a few of the kings of the period did convert to Buddhism and dedicate there temples and artwork to the Buddha. Since Buddhism is the state religion of Cambodia there was much more local activity and prayer at those temples while the majority of tourist crowded around the more well known Hindu structures.

Many of the temples are just outside of the large city of Siem Reap making them very accessible. We visited several of the jungle temples which had become overgrown by large Banyon trees over the 400 years. Many of the trees seemed so artistic the way they rooted themselves around giant Buddha heads or framed the great entrances to the temples. The trees were over 100 feet tall and their massive roots broke through walls and ceilings over time.IMG_3973

I felt the whole place had a very Indiana Jones feel to it but the guides assured me that this was Tomb Raider country and surely as an American I must know of the great Actress Angelina Jolie!! All the other guides and hawkers seemed to mutter her name in agreement when ever “Angelina Jolie” was mentioned. It was hard to try and explain to the guides that Vanessa has told me that we cannot support that witch Angelina because of what that mean Brad Pitt did to the nice Jennifer Aniston girl who we like better…this drew decidedly blank stairs and in a firm tone I was reminded that this was the Angelina

Tomb Raider temple!

Our first day was capped off with a delightfully large bowl of green curry with eggplant, potato and carrot and a side of stir fried garlic Morning Glory, which is like green onions and is served everywhere here. Belly full, we approached the astonishing main temple of Angkor Wat. I don’t usually feel giddy about tourist destinations but this first glimpse had me filled with that sensation that I was looking at something far bigger than I was. Like seeing the Grand Canyon for the first time but with the overlapping awe of

It being made by men completely lacking anything we would call mechanical technology. I have not seen the pyramids but the amount of stone that was used here was enormous to think of in terms of how it might have been moved. Not only the size but also the detail was mind blowing. The temples are almost completely carved from top to bottom in intricate depictions of both Hindu and Buddhist scripture and in the life story if the king who built them. Angkor Wat was a powerful first visit and we decided to return each day to revisit it and try to take its full scale in.

Our second day involved travel 30k out into the country to see several smaller jungle temples and the famous Lady Temple.  It was the only one of its kind in the area that was completely made of a very rare pink sandstone which made it look similar in color to Petra in Jordan. Yes, Indiana Jones was there too, I know. This was a Buddhist temple which the deepest level of engraving into the stone of all the temples. Pictures had a depth of an inch or more into the sandstone but the artist completed it in only three years. It was small in size but the amount if carving and the mix of colors from the red stone to the green moss was kind of hypnotic when you satires at it all. Faces of Buddha emerging from scrolling text, ancient languages mixed with animals and demons. It was just impossible to capture on camera.

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We stopped several times on the drive to see how Teak furniture was made, how sugar palm was turned into local sweets and paused to watch rice in various stages of growth, just, to watch it I guess. There is so much rice here that its looks like an ocean of green and yellow moving in the breeze all within a field, flooded with water, and dotted with buffalo and glimpses of rice hats bobbing up and down above the rice. They can harvest two crops a year of rice and it involves furious amounts of work followed by 4 months of waiting. With almost no family being able to own a tractor it is a mighty collective effort of Villager and Ox.

We finished a long day of driving with a hike up a small mountain to watch the sunset over the countryside. The sunset was unremarkable but the sea of green and blue reached out to the Mekong river delta and was pleasantly quiet after the tumult of traffic and honking in Vietnam.

We rose on our last day at 4am to take in the sunrise over Angkor Wat. It was a mass of tourist but the excitement of the United Nations of the world was palpable. The communal feeling of 10,000 people watching the sun come up and stand content in the thought that they had accomplished one of their bucket list dreams. The accumulation of Wonders of the World list can seem very arbitrary and silly to me but this place put me in awe. Maybe I do need to see what else is on that list after all….

Back to the lights and the sounds, and yes all the honking, that is Saigon. Maybe another Tiger beer, 3-4 more bowls of Pho, one giant approaching typhoon and on to the west coast of California. See everyone soon.

Vietnam – The DMZ and Hue

IMG_3724It was a 4 hour drive to the city of Hue from our last stop in the central highlands. Multi-hour drives in Asia are never easy on busted roads and always seem to involve a surprise 40 minute bathroom stop at the driver’s “cousin’s” pearl/jade/silk store. We opted to take a semi-private tour of the former Demilitarized Zone instead with the hope of making some of the stops more meaningful.

Our first stop was the IMG_3655incredibly impressive Vinh Moc tunnel complex when we reached the coast. During the war the US suspected that this village was supplying Anti Aircraft weapons and ammunition to a small island, which they were, that was shooting down planes flying north from Da Nang to bomb Hanoi. The town was north of the DMZ so was out of the reach of Marine or Army patrols making it a target of Naval Warships and Aircraft. An unbelievable amount of firepower was unleashed, up to 3 hours a day, causing the villagers to begin moving their village underground. The initial complex was 30 feet under the ground and was mainly a bomb shelter during attacks. The advent of American bunker busting bombs which could penetrate 10 meters into the earth before exploding rendered this depth up safe and the villagers would dig, with their hands, picks, and shovels, another 60 feet down for a total of 90 feet. There was a school, kitchens, a hospital and delivery room with 17 births during the war, guard houses and  homes for families. An entire family would live in dug outs along the corridors maybe 8×5 feet in size. While there were two wells for water there was one bathroom for several hundred villagers. All three levels of the tunnels stretched 1800 meters in length with exits in the village above, where a network of trenches connected houses, and at the beach below where they were resupplied by boats from the north. Not a single person was ever killed in the tunnel system during the war despite warships and planes dropping massive tonnage of ordinance, and they effectively disrupted US flights the entire time.

 

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Spending 15 minutes bent over double moving in those dark tunnels and thinking about all dirt above us was enough for Vanessa and I. We were very happy to emerge at the beach and breath fresh air.

After the tunnels we visited the memorial at the crossing of the Ben Hai River which the was traditional border of the north and south. Attached is a picture of how extensive the bomb damage was to the north where the tunnels were. The meuseum had a collection of US relics from captured pilots and a large collection of American weapons and explanations of how they were used to kill Vietnamese. A sobering experience to say the least and not as overtly propaganda driven as the Chinese museum in Tibet that we visited last year. Just uncomfortable in your face images of Americans waging war that needed to be looked at even if it smarted a little bit.

We arrived to the beautiful city of Hue and the not-so-perfume-smelling Perfume River. The dominating center of town is the old capital complex called the Citadel which was fashioned after the forbidden city in Beijing. A sprawling complex of ruins in various states of repair with some very nice exhibits of old imperial life. During the 1968 Tet Offensive Hue was over run, almost every single US outpost in Vietnam was attacked overnight, and the Vietcong held the Citadel for 4 weeks against the full US military. Hue saw the worst fighting along with the fire base Khe Sanh, and nearly all of the Citadel was destroyed by plane and artillery bombardment. Evidence off machine gun and grenade damage was everywhere along the walls and buildings and the battle was well documented by US journalist whose pictures were displayed thoroughly the exhibits. Projects supported by Dutch, German and Japanese grants are restoring many of the buildings to their former states but probably 50% is completely leveled. It was a great on your own tour and about 3 billion times

Less crowded than Beijings version!

Following a classic Dempsey Deathmarch to a pagoda, “come on honey the map says its only 4k”, we called it a day. The pagoda was a operating temple which was also the sight of the famous Monks self-immolation during the war in protest to the regime of South Vietnamese president Diem. One of the most published pictures of the war, it was hard to imagine as we sat looking out over the river, surrounded by Buddhas and the sound of monks gently ringing bells.IMG_3712

Our second excursion was by bike out to the suburbs and the old imperial tombs of the kings. They are vast and gaudy tombs with amazing architecture and sculptures. Some became castles of sorts after the people grew rebelliousabout the amount of money, and forced labor, used to build them. They represented the height of the great Nyugen Dynasty which ruled for much of the past thousand years. About 90% of the people carry that last name in Vietnam as a result we are told. Needless to say, biking through a Vietnam city in rush hour was a wild experience, especially when the breaks on your bike necessitate putting your feet on the ground to be effective, and we felt very accomplished after living through it.

Hue was a great city to spend a few days. For some some reason many Vietnamese had told us to blow through or skip it but we had a wonderful time. There was a great old city and backpacker seen there and it was fun to drink some beers, eat some pizza and watch all the grubby, bearded, and fresh dressed in “yes I bought these yoga pants in Thailand” outfits.

Now for a few days at the beach and then on to the great wonder of the world Angkor Wat and Cambodia.